Large heavy trucks will depress your new blacktop. To avoid this, keep heavy trucks off the paved area. On more than one occasion we’ve seen moving vans completely destroy an asphalt surface. Avoid allowing them on your driveway if at all possible. Trash trucks are extremely heavy and can destroy even 6” thick parking lots. DON’T LET THEM ON YOUR ASPHALT DRIVEWAY!! If you plow the snow on your driveway, or you hire someone to do it for you, make sure that if you’re using chains on your tires not to allow the wheels to spin in place. This will cause deep gashes in the asphalt that may not be noticeable until the spring. Unfortunately there’s nothing that can be done to repair these unsightly damages!
You must keep dirt off the asphalt surface at all times. The dirt pulls the oils out of the blacktop. Gasoline, Oil, Anti-freeze, transmission, power steering fluid and other chemicals will soften and break up the asphalt.
We hope this information was helpful. If you still have some questions concerning the care of your driveway, please feel free to contact our office at
410-287-0639 or toll-free 866-587-9656
or email us at email@example.com
Sealer protects new asphalt with a coating that is impervious to harmful elements. With older asphalt driveways, sealer is mostly a cosmetic procedure. This will NOT fix every little thing, nor will your driveway look brand new. There is only so much sealcoating can do.
Spot damage known as power steering marks may occur on the asphalt if vehicles stop and go too quickly. This also may happen if you turn your steering wheel when the car is not moving. To prevent pits, holes or gouges, avoid using lawn chairs or kickstands. They exert weight on concentrated areas and will leave marks. When using car jacks, ramps or storing boats or campers, place a piece of plywood under them to help distribute the weight.
Sprinklers Please make sure your sprinkler system is turned OFF 24 hours prior to sealing and 48 hours after sealing. This will wash away the sealer. What to Expect When you begin using your driveway after sealing, you will notice for the first few weeks to a month, that it appears to be marking from the wheels of your car; this is to be expected. What’s happening is that the sand in our sealant mix is loosening at the very top of the coating. This will go away and clean up with time. A little rain will help this as well.
NOTE: We ask that you do not do any extreme wheel turning for the few weeks after the sealer has been applied. Try not to turn your wheels in one place when not moving. This can result in what we call power steering marks. Try to keep this in mind for the first few weeks.
You may notice a little difference where we had to hand-edge around such things as your house, fence or walkways. This is necessary to avoid getting any of the sealer on your property.
We may have filled cracks on your driveway before applying the sealer. The material used is rubberized crack filler. This crack filler may NOT be smooth or flush to the asphalt, and may sink a bit due to the make-up of the rubberized material. This is normal. In some instances, the sealer can come off this rubber because it is not as solid as asphalt. The rubber is there to protect your asphalt. If cracks are LESS than 1/4” wide, we can NOT fill them with crack filler. They are too small to do so and therefore you may still notice them. Sealcoating will not necessarily fill them in either.
You may have had some oil stains... if they were severe they may continue to be a problem. Because oil can penetrate deep into your asphalt, it may be impossible to correct without actually repaving the area.
It is natural for the texture of your driveway surface to be varied. It is caused by the various sizes of sand, stone and other ingredients that make up asphalt. Also, areas that are done by hand will appear different than those done by machine.
Be sure to keep car traffic off of the asphalt surface for at least 3 days. In very hot temperatures, we ask that you not park on the area for up to 5 days. You may walk on it right away.
Asphalt/blacktop will need approximately 12 months to harden and cure. It will remain soft and pliable until then. Even after it has cured it will not be as hard as concrete. It will soften and harden as temperatures rise and fall. In very hot temperatures, we recommend watering down the surface with a hose to help with the curing process.
Snow removal is a necessity for any region with mild to harsh winters. But, while snow removal is essential and lifesaving, it can also have some frustrating effects on your asphalt. Unfortunately, any piece of equipment that scrapes against your pavement surface can damage it.
If you use chains on your tires be sure not to allow the wheels to spin in place. This will cause deep gashes in the asphalt that may not be noticeable until the spring. Unfortunately there’s nothing that can be done to repair these unsightly damages!
Ice Melting Products
Ice melting products are very handy in the wintertime in the colder climates. Salt or any other commercial products that melt ice will not hurt asphalt, so they can be used liberally! They can stain the asphalt however, so be sure to spray them off frequently.
Dirt & Chemicals
TIPS ON CARING FOR NEW ASPHALT/BLACKTOP
AND SEALCOATED SURFACES
Avoid driving off of the edges as they will crack and crumble due to lack of side support. You may support the sides by building up the edges with topsoil.
We ask that you please allow at least 48 hours of drying time and out of those 48 hours, 12 hours be in the sunlight. Drying time may vary from day to day, so we ask that you use your best judgement... IF IT LOOKS WET, IT IS WET. You may walk on the surface as soon as it looks dry. Please keep cars off of sealed area for 2 days. Very shady areas, may need longer drying time. Also, allow for longer drying times if it is humid out.
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